We did it!

We did it!

Wind was our foe in the final day.  Rain swept through at night leaving only sprinkles at best but the wind gusts were enough to push off your balance-especially carrying a pack.  We started out near the military facility, using a combination of roads traveled in the 15-19th centuries to bury people in the moors and some right bushwhacking through the heather.  We climbed down into one valley and then up again, still amazed at the lovely muted colors of the moors.  After about an hour, we got our first view of Robin Hood's Bay and the north sea!  We stopped at a burial cross which might be the oldest in England before targeting a tower on a far hill as our destination point from which we would enter RHB.  The wind started really whipping at this point, making the small drops of rain seem like hail.  There were a couple of points where the wind almost made me lose fmy balance.  Ultimately, we made our goal and set off align a road to RHB, down some steep hills my thigh muscles did not appreciate before we rejoined a trail to take us down, up and then down again (needed to get in one last steep mini-hill) to the beach.  Just as we hit the beach, the sun began to shine a bit and we walked along the sands to get closer to the town.  Keeping with tradition, we added to our journey waking out to the north sea, as the tide was out, to take off our boots and walk barefoot in the sea.  (you dip your boot in the Irish sea and your foot in the north).  There were a few smiles and hugs and then Liz and I decided we needed ice cream which we got from a truck on the beach.  It was a local brand and very good.  One more very, very steep hill to climb to the van and we said good bye to RHB - the final leg of our odyssey across england.  Will admit to a few nights where the legs and the feet hit so bad I wiondered if I would make it but I did and am darn proud of my certificate proving that I am a coast to coaster.

Weathermen and Whitby

Well the weathermen in England are about as accurate as those in the US.  Woke up this morning to overcast sky but none of the wind and precipitation we were warned to expect.  We got a sleep in as well, welcome after the early mornings of some of the long days and welcome for me because I wandered down to the town common last night and watched 8 year-old lambs behave like soccer hooligans.  They were so cute, running around playing tag with each other and periodically stopping-by crashing into each other and then shoving one another for dominance. Tried to take some photos but I think the locals thought I was crazy and the lambs were not sure what to make of my flash in the dusk light.
Back to today, the weather staff did get the cold temps correct so I was finally able to pull out my long john top which kept me comfortable as we climbed up a small hill, into a valley and then out again.  So much for climbing being done!  We found a well preserved Roman road which ran from York to the coast built now just under two thousand years ago.  It is a pretty cool thing to come across in the middle of fields filled with sheep and think that legionnaires used it.
We did a bit of fell running (did I tell you our guide holds at least one fell running world record?). He also finished the Bob Graham race which is something like 72 miles and 42 mountain tops in 24 hours!  Guess I should stop complaining about the hills.
We saw a steam train coming along the tracks and ran the trail to try to catch it.  We could not quite do so. We finished near a military early warning system left over from the cold war.  It was supposed to give Europe a three minute warning on the start of world war three.  Rather strange building in the middle of nowhere in the Yorkshire moors.
Upon our lunchtime return some of us decided to ride into Whitby for a look around.
Whitby is on the coast, north of where we will finish tomorrow and is known as a major fishing port and market.  It also is where Captain Cook trained as a young sailor and where Dracula came ashore in literature. Back in the 700's it had a huge monastery, now in ruins and that monastery which had both nuns and monks was run by a woman!  Pretty amazing as back then this would have been a major communication point for points to the east.  I visited the abbey remains and walked among the shops in town, stopping for a Yorkshire tea, and a scone with clotted creme for a snack.
Back at the hotel, I walked into town to photograph some Heartbeat things as judging from the number of tourists passing through, the connection is a big deal.  On the way back, a year old lamb caused a traffic jam.  She decided that the middle of the road was a great potty stop and no number of cars would budge her until she was done.  It was really funny to watch as she took quite a while.  When finished she slowly walked to the side, making it clear who was in control.
I have mixed feelings about tomorrow. Excited to finish what I started but a bit sad to see the physical test end.  It has been a test a times-for the legs and the feet but I'm proud of myself for doing it and grateful for all my readers and your notes here and on FB.  Cannot wait to post pictures to show you details!

I see Robin Hood Bay!

That's Robin Hood Bay I see!
So much for the "all the climbing is done," we started up a hill this morning.  Thankfully my legs had returned to normal-sore but no pain-so I was able to get up the incline.  Once there we were rewarded with views of the moors for as far as we could see and were able to use old carriage and defunct and destroyed railway tracks to cover significant ground.  I told everyone that I could keep up today but was going to need frequent photo stops as the colors were all shades of muted greens and purples and the sunshine and cloudy skies made for magnificent shading.  While the weather wasn't anything I remember in Wuthering Heights, it was easy to imagine Heathcliff and Cathy racing across the landscape.  We encountered a few sheep but many more mother grouse - followed by the most adorable little chicks.  One stumbled onto the path before me, startled by my presence and of course startled me as he ran into the moors so that I missed the photo op.  Much of the trail was wide open but some was single file track through hip deep heather.  By Lunch we covered about 10 miles and at two crosses nicknamed fat Betty and Young Ralph, we got a good glimpse of the north sea.  We stopped to eat and decided to continue on as tomorrow's weather is not going to be as nice and any mileage covered today could be avoided in the rain coming on Saturday.  We passed a monk track, 28 miles of stones laid across the moors between two old abbeys.  This made it easy for them to travel In all sorts of weather.  On top of one moor, we got our first view of our final destination-Robin Hood's Bay.  It looks very pretty and of course we were elated (in some ways) to see the ending point. We passed some additional old stones and continued trekking on-at which point my thighs started to scream again.  Tonight we are at a posh country hotel in Goathland or something like that.  The place is famous for some tv show Heartbeat that I'm told is a British obsession. As I write this I sit under a drawing of Winston Churchill, which is in some ways fitting as the Brits and the French are commemorating the Dunkirk evacuation this weekend.  It is a huge story here as hundreds of small ships -including some which sailed 70 years ago-have journeyed back to France for ceremonies due to take place today.  Reminds me that you all are commemorating a holiday this weekend as well.  Hope you take time to remember as well as celebrate.

Hitting the wall

It all caught up with me today.  I was probably the slowest walker in England.  Wendy left us this morning so there are now only three left.  My feet survived their two dozen hotspots of last night with only one blister- which I think is a minor miracle but I was so focused on my feet, I forgot about my legs which were stiff and really hurt this morning.
We started out on a logging track walking in tried muddy paths built by heavy equipment up a hill. The only part of the path they seemed to have built was to cut down the larger trees, leaving smaller branches for us to trip over and some places to wade through.  Definitely watch your footing and while we had a few stumbles, we did not have any tumbles.  Ultimately we hit the top of the north Yorkshire moors which I think is the prettiest part of the trip so far.  The hill tops have a combination of fields and heather and forests and we alternated walking though all of it repeatedly.  The views from the top were incredible, all the way back to nine standards of a few days and dozens of miles ago.  The forest paths had more garlic and lots of bluebells on either side, Fields had farms with cows and lambs.
Most of the day was relatively clear but we watched rain showers gather around us and finally give us a slight shower.  It is always neat to watch a storm come in from a mountain top. The paths, after the first bit, were relatively good, many were prepared by the national park service but my legs were still so weak from yesterday downwards, still steep, was practically at a crawl so I could minimize pressure on the thighs.  Everyone was very understanding.  We went up and down five hills, and around a sixth before finishing for the day and visiting the remains of a local abbey.  Henry VIII got to this one too but it remained relatively well preserved.  Sleep tonight is at queen Catherines in osmotherly.  Hopefully the legs will be ready in the morning. 

Pb baby or 400 yards my arse

PB baby or 400 yards my are!
Today we walked 23 miles.  This is officially 3 miles more than I have ever walked before but as our guide said to me this morning when I expressed some trepidation, what is another 3 if you are hiking 20?  We started in Richmond and "the girls" as those of us who run our mouths and our feet at the same pace have been nicknamed, insisted at stopping at a tea shop to make up for the imaginary stop we were tricked into yesterday to keep us moving.  We took take away treats.  The goal today was distance so that we can climb into the moors of Heathcliff and Cathy tomorrow.  There were farmlands and country lanes.  We stopped at the church where the oldest man to ever live in england lived.  He was supposedly 169 years old when he died and if they are fibbing, they have invested an awful lot of stone and slate through the years to prove their point.  We stopped for lunch and changed into our rain gear, including my pink pants-yes I have a picture- just before we got hit with the first downpour of the trip.  We continned to walk along, covering distance, and getting closer to the moors, convinced we would not be allowed to stop until we hit the mountains.  Wendy thought we might be allowed to stop before we hit the highway but once there we were told to run across in a break of rush hour traffic.  I didn't think I could make it but we did, giggling a little bit as we crossed to the divider and then made a made dash to the end.  On the other side we could see the van-hurrah-but our guide told us we needed to go another 400 yards to the cross at Inglesby.  Trip ended up being another mile and when I finished I used the phrase that started this essay.  He's been repeating it ever since.  Could,t have done it without Liz and Wendy as the other "girls" have dropped out or gone back to work. They are my Heros.  The pb baby stands for personal best and is liz's phrase.

On to Richmond

On to Richmond.
Woke up today to typical English weather.  Overcast skies and obviously some night time rain.  Rain gear went on for the first time the entire trip.  We had a low mileage day going the 12 miles from Reeth. While we have become used to sheep grazing on the hillsides and the lambs running to their mums as we walk by, today the numbers were a bit reversed and the sheep and the cattle outnumbered us, in some places 10 to 1.  This meant the animals were much more vocal about letting us know they were not sure we belonged-and twice we were greeted with a cacophony of mooing and baaing with the animals not quite clearing our paths as quickly as we were used to.  It can be a bit disconcerting to have a mother cow blocking the path or sheep standing on the side of the trail looking at you thinking like they might charge.  Wendy said there is a story every year of a cow attack although usually that involves walkers traveling with a dog. We had some short climbs so that we approached Richmond from the heights making the castle an imposing sight.
The town is rather large for this part of England with most of the buildings looking Georgian.  The castle was first built shortly after the conquest-probably around 1070 by the Brittany dukes who came with their cousin William.  It doesn't claim credit to much historical significance although Henry III did order its surrender during the Baron's war in the mid 13th century and Henry Tudor technically was the Earl of Richmond when he won the War of the Roses.  The castle is huge and since it avoided the 15th and 16th century violence it is in very good shape- although most of the literature talks about castle life in general.  Like other parts of this hike, there were references to Robin Hood in parts of the castle sections.  We suspect the north was usually so frustrated with the south that they took this southern hero (Nottingham is south of here) as one of their own.  We have passed Robin's chair, his grave and now his tower as we head towards our ending point of robin hood's bay.
Next two days will be long.  We hope to walk to the Yorkshire moor district tomorrow and begin climbing the next day.  The moors are the last of the three national parks we will cross on our way to the sea.  Need to finish 35 miles in two days.  Luckily the cramps and sore knee, from a fall, seem to have calmed down.  Briefly had some doubt about my ability to finish but the English have this lovely ibuprofen gel which does wonders.  Not sure what is in it-they only let you buy two tubes at a time.

Keld to Reeth via the Herriot Bridge

Heat finally broke today-down from the 80s and 90s back to the 70s. We started back at the halfway point, in Keld, and started climbing up smaller hills into the Yorkshire Dales. These dales are covered with heather, just beginning to think about blooming. They will be spectacular in August. We walked through the grouse hunting field, looking for grouse to photograph. I'm told grouse hunting is a big sport starting in August every year as beaters roam the hills to force the birds from the heather into sight of stone "forts" where hunters await. Seems a bit unfair. We hiked up and down the dales not as hard as the lake district hills but we joked that everytime we went down, we knew we would need to climb back up. We found a few grouse, including a family with little chicks following the parents. As we were careful to avoid disturbing them, I don't think the pictures will be much good.
Lunch was by Surrender bridge which does not have the name for any reason except that a Surrender mine was near by. We Americans know it from the start of the All Creatures Great and Small series with the guy who is now the Minister of Magic in Harry Potter (important literature). It was a great place to eat lunch. We walked on leaving the heather covered dales for the green hills of Yorkshire and unbelievably beautiful scenery. (I seem to use that phrase a lot.) We finished today in the town of Reeth were I decided I needed a Ginger ice cream cone for my efforts.

100 miles and Yorkshire!

Officially hallway done-100 miles and yes I am feeling pretty proud of myself! We left Kirby Stevens this morning and headed up to the Nine Standards. These are nine prehistoric rock colums built between Yorkshre and Cumbria. It is very hot here and we were concerned as we started walking in what would be 90 degree temps but once we left the valley for the hilltop, there was a gentle and then not so gentle breeze. We hiked over moors filled with yellow gorse and lots of birds, officially crossing into Yorkshire where I will be glad to focus on history and not poetry. We finished with iced lollies in Keld, from which we will set out tomorrow right through the opening shots of the All Creatures Great and Small intro.
I have developed an awful case of walkers rash but we have our OBE nurse with us now and she has assured me that I will live.

On jumping lambs, 20 mile slogs and big bulls.

Yesterday was supposed to be the hardest day, today was the longest. We hiked 20 miles leaving the lake district and heading towards Herriot's Yorkshire. As one might think fitting for lands immortalized by the author of all creatures great and small, that meant farmland. However, for the record- farmland is not flat. The hills were rolling but nothing so hard as yesterday. We saw lots of nursing lambs-their tails wag so quickly as if they think they hit the motherlode, it is very cute to watch. We also saw nursing cows and horses-not so much tail action there.
The sun was shining so it was very hot. We treated ourselves to ice cream sandwiches at Octon when we arrived at 10 this morning. Not the usual brunch fare but it tasted good. As we walked along the fields we could see the summits we left behind in the lake district and look ahead to the considerably shorter hills of the Yorkshire dales. If you haven't hiked in England, you traverse private fields, trying to be careful to avoid the largest poop piles-animals make a lot of poop-really lots. The highlight of the morning was to come along a year old lamb who had somehow gotten under a fence but could not figure out how to get back. It was baaing something awful as the family was all on the other side. He ran up the hill when we approached - obviously very frightened. Then he charged a four foot tall rock fence with a running start trying desperately to get over. He missed by about six inches. We coaxed him back down the hill where we were holding open the fence. He tried another running start and got between Jen and I through the fence and he suddenly jumped into the air-about three and a half feet high. We were blown away. Of course no warning so no camera. He then ran to his mates. We stopped by a tairn-a lake for lunch and then continued on through the field. At one point we found a bull blocking our way and were told to walk across in a close group and under no circumstances were we to take out our cameras. We made it safely across.
The slog today was hard and made harder by the fact that two of us have princely heat on our ankles making the end of the hike very, very hard. I also got Charlie horses-which for the record is an American term- which required translation but after dinner at the coast to coast fish and chips restaurant, I am feeling better and excited about morning.

My aching feet and the truth comes out.

My aching feet and the truth comes out.
Today was the hardest so far, we started from Patterdale this morning, up a steep incline. An old man walking his dog is the foggy weather smiled at me struggling about halfway up. "Don't worry dearie, this is the hardest day." The climb was steep and while it briefly leveled off, our guide pointed out that we ultimately were aiming even higher. The sun came out -as is now painfully apparent from my sunburnt hands- and we continued to climb. We hit a point between two mountains and two breathtaking lakes but we were aiming for the highest point of the week and while we did stop to take in a view, we were very aware of the climb. Finally we hit a plateau with a mountain tairn - a lake and "the girls" as we have been called, decided a swim was in the cards. Our guide gave us 10 minutes- this was a long hard day and he didn't want us dawdling. Heck, it is not possible to dart out of sight, strip down to nothing, change into a suit, go swimming, and then get dressed again in 10 minutes. I came closest, at 20, in large part because I was concerned about the rocks and only got slightly oowet. Yes, there is a picture of me In my suit by the lake. No, you will never see it. We dressed but not before I soaked both my running bra and my long sleeve t shirt in the lake. The cold felt wonderful against my skin as we continued our climb to the top - about 2600 feet. Once there the view was spectacular and we were allowed to stop briefly to take in the view. Our guide is a bit of a task master and he wanted us down, off the mountain before we stopped for lunch. The climb down was among the hardest we have done so far, very steep, lots of rocks and more than a few scrambling places. Also a few hinie places, where if you were smart you simply sat down and wiggled to the edge before dropping to the next landing.
At the bottom, we were rewarded with a lovely stream, perfect for lunch. Of course by that time, I was so hot I took off my shirt and soaked it in a lake steam. We continued to walk this time along side a 5mile lake which was built as a reservoir for Manchester and buried a town previously in the valley. The sun was shining brightly but eventually we were rewarded with the view of the dam and the knowledge that we would reach the lake's end. After a quick stop for tea, we set out over the last five miles across fields which included one freshly dumped with manure- yuk, yuk, yuk!
We finally saw Strap abbey in the distance. Another ruin created by the devolution of the monasteries in the 16th century under Henry the 8th. The reuins were impressive, like so much I've seen In Wales, large and totally destroyed showing what was likely a great community back in the 12th century.
I hit my wall during the final walk into the town- asking our guide how much farther and relying on my teammates to encourage me on assuring me that we would see the town after the next curve. We finally did but had to walk to through the entire town to reach our hotel which was the most painful walk I can ever remember. Hotel is nice and tomorrow we have the longest mileage of the trip-20 in one day.
Tonight over my nightly Strongbow-which tonight became two pints-our guide confided that he was very impressed with me, being totally uncertain how a 40 plus woman from NYC would do on this trip. I told him I wax half Irish and half italian and stubborn as hell so I would get through it. Being that he is 60 plus, I don't think I can congratulate myself too much.

Canadians, Caveliers and St Patrick

On Canadians, Caveliers and St Patrick
Today started as a very claggy (not to be confused with the new deputy prime minister) day.  Claggy is west Cumbrian for cloudy and once again we started a trek across the field to the start of an incline.  We passed the gravesite of the last king of west Cumbria-now covered with a huge pile of small stones.  No, I don't know his name.  We were told this morning but I've forgotten.  I asked our guide who were the Normans who conquered this part of England.  He said the Normans didn't want it and repeatedly gave it to the Scots-except being from York, he used a bad word in front of Scots.  Scrambling up a cliff in clag is a bit disconcerting.  You really cannot see too many feet in front and you certainly cannot see the top-an important motivator as you scramble up on a wet trail.  After a few tumbles yesterday everyone was very careful today.  The top was covered with clouds and we started on a trail which we eventually figured out was around a lake.  It was so foggy we couldn't see more than 15 feet in front of us so we had no idea we were lakeside.  Finally we figured it out and one of our group decided she was going swimming.  Now mind you, it was chilly, some would say cold from the fog, but she  climbed behind some rocks, changed into a red swim suit and waded in.  She is from  Canada so more used to the cold than some of us.  A group of British walkers came behind us and I stopped them from going behind the rocks to the changing room telling them that a Canadian pal was dressing for swimming.  They said their daughter was headed to Canada shortly for work and they sure hoped madness was not contagious.
On through the fog, we started down the trail where we ran into some Aussies from Perth.  The woman was wearing a cap with an orange V and crossed swords which I immediately recognized as a UVA Cavielier cap.  I think I startled her a bit with my reaction as her husband explained he had been in Virginia for a tattoo with his Aussie prep school and simply thought the v stood for Virginia.  I explained that Thomas Jefferson founded the school, adding for clarification that he wrote the Declaration of Independence (do Aussies know that?). At any rate, they seemed interested enough as I explained my brother and his family were in Charlottesville.
Down the trail we stopped for lunch where three sheep tried to get a bit too close. They apparently will eat bread crusts as one of my fellow hikes shared with them.
Further down the trail, we came to Pattersdale, a town where St Patrick came to convert the heathen before moving to Ireland.  Could not help thinking how much their feet must have hurt without our good boots.
Tonight we hiked into a really old inn-15th century-ish-complete with the uneven floors.  Tomorrow we hike out for another climb and another long day but first tonight dinner with an OBE, as our guide's wife received one a couple years back for work in nursing.  We all plan to ask her about meeting the queen.

Pied piper of the lakes

I'm trying to remember the pied piper story and my memory is failing but our guide is definitely the pied piper of the lakes in a good way.
Weather this morning was more typically British, making me very happy, both because I packed for this weather and I like the cooler temps to hike. We headed back to last night's take out spot and started up a valley, along side a waterfall. Once again, I cannot wait to share pictures because the view was incredible. Up near the top, we saw a rock climb to a summit from which there was an 800 foot drop. As those of you who have hiked with me before know, me and heights- not so good together. Thankfully this was a scramble (up and over rocks) and I never had a chance to look down or out.
I was fine on the top where nature had put a few rocks 3 feet from the pinnacle and I was of course content to have my photo taken with my legs touching the rocks. As we hit the summit, the fog rolled in and you could almost hear Cathy calling for Heathcliff. No markers and really thick fog, we were glad to have a local guide. Everyone else who summited this morning-12 in all, were dependent on their own maps and we noticed as we left the cliff face, a line formed behind us. So the pied piper led his motley crew through the wet thick bogs where we could not see a trail and the name of the game was not to step in anything too deep. We probably were trying to avoid the 2 inch black slugs (yes I got a picture for a certain 11 year old.) and all the sheep-well, you know, but keeping the boots relatively dry and the peat of the bog out of the boot was the first priority. By now, there was a light drizzle making any rocks you might find your enemy-extremely slippery and guaranteed to make you fall.
We finally broke up the parade as most of our followers were campers, and headed in another direction. We headed down the mountain slipping through the bogs, on the wet rocks and talking, yes really talking to all the sheep we passed. The lambs are so cute, I want to take one home but I haven't figured out what I would do with it when I get in back to New Jersey - plus the grown up sheep aren't quite so cute.
Aternoon was spent at a 4500 year old, Druid circle which was big enough to fit 100people inside. Love that stuff-looking at the mountains trying to figure out why it was built where it was built. Entrance pointed perfectly north - took out my compass to check! Then to Keshwick, the local tourist spot with dozens of hiking stores and shops that make scones, soaps, candy.
Now, I'm sitting by a roaring fire at the Borrowdale Gates hotel. Life is good.

Coca cola- food of the gods

Coca-cola food of the Gods
Maybe the cuckoo bird we heard at the start should have provided a hint.  We made it to Lake Ennerdale early this morning under a bright blue sky and started down a trail by a lake which looked right out of a Turner painting.  The lake's beauty was beyond fantastic with mountains opposite us.  Walking along the trail of roots and rocks-watch your feet now but don't forget to stop and look at the unbelievable view, it was possible to imagine Victorian or Edwardian tourists walking along a trail until they find a section of shoreline to sit and read or paint. This was typical Lake District and absolutely breathtaking.  
Early on the trail, We heard a cuckoo bird-our guide said the first of Spring.  If you have never heard a cuckoo bird before they sound exactly like the clock- except they don't stop at 12 or even 1200.  They go on incessantly to the point when you think they might actually be telling you something.
The lake was lovely but eventually we turned onto a logging road.  There are some very small-by US or Scottish standards, tree farms.  Some seem to be owned by UPM, a Finnish company whose name I know from work.  The logging road ran opposite a river which fed the lake and was long and hot -even as it gave us great views.  It was also very hot and approaching noon.  Looking ahead at what was clearly a mountainous cul de sac, we kept trying to guess which mountain we would need to summit to get to the valley on the other side.  We finished at the remote Black Sail hostel, where the conversation turned to how the heck do you resupply a place so far from everyone else.  There, tired from the walk and the heat, I had what may have been the best CocaCola of my life.  I pulled it from my pack, having bought it yesterday to settle my tummy and shared with those who also thought it the best treat. We called it the food of the gods and I couldn't help contrasting our reaction with all the conversations about sugar soda being bad for you that are going on back home.  Gosh that sure tasted good and gave me the energy to go up Grey's Knots-2287 foot where it felt like we were on a stair master pumped at a 10 incline the entire time.  We plodded up behind out guide who at one point turned to wait for the end of our short line and then ran his way to the front.  Amazingly impressive for +60.
At the top we stopped for Lunch, where I avoided English food and ate a couple breakfast bars.  The view from the top went all the way back to the ocean-some 20 miles away and included three lakes. Amazing!
What goes up must come down and we began the long trek down.  The trail was rough with rocks and I actually took four tumbles.  By the fourth I was giggling hard and the guide accused me of having vodka in my luncheon water.  I pointed out that I got the water bottle from him.  Down at the bottom, just shy of Borrowdale, we stopped to watch farmers put two day old lambs into the fields with their moms for the first time.  They wobbled and were so cute.  Most were skittish but one came to the fence where I got pictures and a quick pet. It felt like a sweater.  
So feet very sore, but happy.  Staying at the Borrowdale Gate hotel where they haven't heard of wi-fi yet so posting will need to wait.  Never mind the last sentence, figured out the one chair in the entire place which offers wifi.

Day 1 - 14.5-make that 16 miles

Beautiful blue sky in West Cumbria this morning as we headed to the coast and St Bees for the start. Tradition has you dip your toe into the Irish Sea before starting and since the tide was out that added another half mile to the journey-not included in the total above. Then it was up and over the cliffs, the beautiful Irish sea to our left as we headed north and then east. The yellow gorse is in full bloom and if the bluebells are slightly past their prime, they combined with pink campions to make a lovely wall of bushes to keep us from being blown off, down 300 feet to the waters below.
Turning inland, we passed a slate quarry and into farmlands full of just born lambs, then up some steep hills-about two thousand feet. The English have not discovered switchbacks so an incline is just that-up a stair master like hill and down into the valley of Nannycatch. I sure found myself wishing for some good old Rocky mountain switchbacks-the kind you usually curse out for doubling the distance. If up was hard, try down-a good mile verically down, heel toing it all the way. Near the end we decided to add another mile and a half to the hike today-something I was less game to do-struggling with a sour stomach as my system acclimates to English cooking.
Back at the hotel, I'm feeling better and have a pile of really smelly clothes. Tomorrow we do another 14 miles-passing robin hoods chair and up 2287 feet! I'm debating a walk into town-yes a sure sign of insanity.

You are going to hate me!

Not quite sure what to think when this is one of the first things I hear from our guide. His name is Terry, he is older than everyone on this trip and he runs mountains for fun! I've seen the mountain runners training in Wales and have been blown away. Parts of Snowden can feel like a stair master cranked up to it's steepest and then you see someone running-yes running past you. I am both excited and scared about tomorrow's 14.5miles.
Oh, guess I should have been scared of the volcano. Airspace is all closed here now. Well, I'm not worrying for two weeks! at least about that!

Sunday may 16

Feeling much more human today after a reasonable night of sleep.  Still not perfectly on British time but much better than zombieland yesterday.  Had a semi English breakfast of cereal, egg and toast.  Still can not get over how much gets eaten for breakfast in this country.  Get looked at strangely for not wanting to add tomato and meats to my egg order.
Penrith seems typical of most British towns-everything is closed on Sunday!  Not having much else to do, I headed over to St. Andrews, the local Church of England where a small crowd gathered for services.  The service was much more modern than back home with the use of modern versions of all prayers although the final hymn was one I knew from childhood.  Said a prayer for a successful trip.  After services I walked through town back to the castle ruins for a bit more of a look around.  A park is set up next door with the final sping flowers blooming and the starting growth of the summer ones.  Am always amazed at how perfectly the English gardens seem to grow.  Tulips and daffodils giving way perfectly to roses.  Lunch was yogurt, fruit and veggies sitting in the park before one more trip through the ruins.  Am struct by the utter neutrality of the information on Richard of Gloucester in both the castle signage and the tourist literature.  None of the negativism usually seen with references to his reign.  Testing my memory a little but I believe this part of England was Richard's territory, where his brother Edward IV sent him to watch the border and where he honed the administrative skills which led to his downfall as king-I guess the northerners are different than those further south.  I've always found Richard to be an interesting character since so much of what we "know" is written by those who defeated him and had reason to vilify him.  Seems unlikely that the hero battle commander of Barnett and Tewksbury could have been as deformed as Shakespeare said he was, unless in part it was from a battle injury sustained as he led the vanguard for his brother during the final battles in the War of the Roses.  Now I am waiting for the others to arrive-hence my time to write history (from memory for those of you who really think I need to look it up-I don't) as love of history is a gift from my dad.  One for which I will be forever grateful.

Saturday may 15

After all the talk about volcanos, I end up being done in by a thunderstorm!
As the time to board came we were told the plane, coming up from Florida, had landed in Baltimore for refueling.  While it definitely was hot and hazy in NYC, there must have been some pretty crazy storms south.  Long, long story short we finally took off around two thirty Saturday morning!  We landed about 2:30 and somehow I made it through customs and baggage claim just in time to catch a 3:30 pm train.  Being used to American commuter lines, I am always surprised to realize that in other parts of the world train travel is how the masses get around and on train to Preston there were lots of people out running the weekend errands.  At Preston I changed trains to one for Glasgow which gives you some idea of how close to the Scots border we are, and finally got to the town of Penrith about 5:30 pm some 17 hours after I left my office.  Needless to say, I'm in a bit of zombie land.
Penrith is like a lot of other small english town, this one a launching point for lake district tours.
One of its claims to fame is a castle ruin which dates back to the 14th century-see I managed to find some history!  It was built as a border fortress and later temporarily a home for Richard, Duke of Gloucester, during one of the times during his brother's reign when he left the court unable to deal with its profligate ways.  The ruins are pretty much total ruins-not quite as bad as what i've seen in Wales but almost and this castle was built about 300 years after those.
Staying at a hotel right near the train station, logically called The Station Hotel.  Comfortable with very friendly people.  



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At the Airport

I am settled in at the airport-once again quite the ordeal. It continues to amaze me than almost ten years after 9-11 security can still run so inefficiently. Still I've found a seat next to an outlet and have nothing to do but wait for two more hours and finish the sandwich I brought from NY.
I carried my luggage (ok-rolled the biggest piece) and had the second biggest as my backpack-easily balanced on my hips, the half mile to the train this morning. A friend was on the train and helped me get the pile to work through the NYC subways. There is a column next to my space so I took over the area in front of the coat closet for my stuff and proceeded to be productive. Once again I got a lot of support which is definitely appreciated as I think these past few weeks I am more aware of my body than I've been in a long while and all sorts of things have decided to ache. I work with a lot of people who have run marathons, my best childhood friend is an Ironman (well Ironwoman) having formally earned that credential a couple years back, one coworker is presently running a 24 hour relay race. I do believe our bodies are capable of so much more than we put them though-guess I'm testing that theory for the rest of the month and I have a lot of people behind me on this so I want to make us all proud.

The Map

Finally found a map that shows where I'm going - although with 50 hours until my flight takes off, I'll be honest and admit I have had a few thoughts thinking that I really am a bit crazy. This also is a good time to say "thanks (a lot!)" to all the friends and FB friends (ie. friends I don't see everyday) who have offered their support and their total confidence that I can do this. I appreciate your support more than you could know.

On Rumors, Reactions and Legends

Last evening, an older woman with whom I volunteer wished me luck on my hike across Scotland and Ireland. I gently corrected her that this hike was across northern England: England at it's narrowest. I wanted to point out that between Scotland and Ireland was a body of water so it would be a little difficult to hike over that. I wondered who else she told about my trip. I caught another friend telling a mutual acquaintance about my one week 200 mile hike. I corrected her as well, although she knows me well enough to know that 30-40 miles a day is just utterly beyond my ability so I'm not sure why she turned me in a super human.

I wish I had documented all the reactions I've had from people when I tell them I am making this trip. Most express surprise. Some tell me I'm crazy, some tell me they are proud of me for trying something like this. Most people think vacation is for relaxing. I tell them there is nothing more relaxing for me than a physical vacation. I'm utterly incapable of thinking about hiking the distances I will be covering and any excel formula, circulation model or legal contract. I just need to focus on what my body is doing. My brain finds these trips totally relaxing and I return refreshed (at least that is the plan this time - I admit I'm pushing harder than usual.)

My neighbors have been watching me return from various walking loops for months now. They all think I'm crazy. The four year old next door flat out told me so. As I was coming home late one spring night and she was outside with her Dad, she asked me what I was doing. I explained I was practicing for my 200 mile hike. I could watch her face as she processed my answer, then she responded "why would anyone want to do that? I don't think she knows what a mile is but I know she can count to 200 and it was a high number. I told her I would give her my answer when I returned.

So, before the legends grow any more, here are some facts. I am hiking from St Bees, on the Irish Sea to Robin Hood Bay on the North Sea. The hike goes through three British national parks: Lake District, Yorkshire Dales, North York Moors. Its officially listed at 192 miles although some people have measured it longer. The world record for completing it is just under 40 hours although most people take between 2 and 3 weeks to do so. It doesn't pass through anyplace anyone has ever heard of (a fact now confirmed by numerous coworkers who have looked at the map I have posted)- although once we finish at Robin Hood Bay, we are headed to Scarborough the last evening and I'm pretty sure it is the Scarborough the childhood song.
Leaving in 4 days! Cannot wait!

On Packing and Volcanos

Sometime this morning as I was trying to fit into the suitcase and backpack what didn't seem like that many clothes as they sat on the bed, I was again grateful that I only need to carry a day pack and not all my clothes and boots and shoes. The outfitter will drop us off at the trailhead in the morning and pick us up at the end of the day - bringing us back to a comfortable bed. I only need to carry 8 hours of supplies. Of course since it will be May in Great Britain - that includes 4 complete changes of clothes: heavy clothes for the early morning temps not too much above freezing, hiking clothes for 'normal' 50-60 degree temps, a t-shirt for the possiblity the sun could come out and really heat things up (not needed often but did happen a couple times on various Welsh trips) and the ever present rain geat. My rain pants were on sale - they are pink - and a color more appropriate to a 4 year old than a 40+ year old. My rain top is navy blue so I won't look totally ridiculous.

Adding to the stress of packing for this trip is the name anyone planning on 'crossing the pond' has mastered this spring:Eyjafjallajokull. That darn Icelandic volcano is still sputtering enough ash to ground hundreds of flights a day. Great Britain has seen rolling airport closures all week so I feel the need to carry on enough hiking equipment to be able to start the hike should my luggage be delayed because of last minute flight changes. If I don't overpack my backpack, I'm pretty sure I can carry it on.

So, with 5 days before the flight, I have almost everything in the suitcase - I have this silly theory that if I pack everything early, the air is squished out of it and it takes up less room making it easier to close the bag. I don't think I've overpacked anything - if it all fits in the suitcase, I haven't, right?.

Shoes! Shoes! and more Shoes!

Because I work in publishing, I get a particular kick out of any of my nieces or nephews discovering a magazine. A few years back my then five year old niece discovered the shoe issue of In Style. She gleefully proclaimed that she "had no idea there were this many shoes in the world" and proceeded to pour through the pages pointing out which ones she "needed." She must get her shoe obsession from her Mom. My brother only wears comfortable shoes, my sister is practical in her footwear and every shoe in my closet is black, navy blue, brown, tan or white. (Oh - except for those pink sandles which were 80% off.)

When you start to plan for a 200 mile walk you think about shoes - a lot. I've always been partial to Merrell hiking boots. I tend to buy about a pair a decade and they do well with the 5-8 mile hikes which tend to be my norm. My current boots don't cover my ankles but they have served me well; in Colorado, Utah, Wales and Scotland. Talking with my brother at Christmas he pointed out that this trip is more than I've ever done before and I might want to invest in a new pair. While I try hard not to tell my brother he is right too often, this time he was correct. When I hiked in Scotland, I hiked with a woman who had to duct tape her boot to get through the final days of the trip. Not a real option here. Scotland also resulted in some wet feet - my Merrells are getting old and sometimes are not as waterproof as they were originally. Stepping in deep puddles in pouring rain didn't help but I wouldn't want to be putting on wet boots a second day.

Thankfully, REI opened a store in New Jersey and once the trip was confirmed I headed to East Hanover to see what they had. REI is for serious outdoor enthusiasts and while I don't count myself in their hardcore stream, I can appreciate their appreciation for top equipment. Heading over to the shoe department, I picked up a pair of Merrell's which thankfully they did not have in my size. That forced me to ask for help and the sales staff and every other woman in the department told me I needed to try on the Keens. Stylish (ok maybe my niece gets a bit of her obsession from me) and so very comfortable, my feet were in heaven. That's good because we know they won't feel that way later this month! The Keens have seen a lot of the parks in suburban New Jersey over the last couple of months. Both pairs will be making the trip - just in case one pair gets wet.

Hiking shoes chosen, the harder part of the trip are the after hike shoes. Here I'm going with an old pair of leather Sketchers which are very comfortable and very rectanglar. I think the latter will be helpful and give my feet plenty of spreading room. My after hike sandles are J-41 which near as I can figure out are shoes made by Chrysler LLC (seriously) using some sort of Jeep technology. They have a map in the bottom but I don't think one which will help me. I hope I don't have reason to find out.

So - two week hike - two pairs of hiking boots and two pairs of after hike shoes. I have a feeling at the end of the trip, I'll be ready for a pretty pair of red high heeled sandles. Maybe I can ask my niece for help with picking out a pair!

Me on a Literary Hike?

This hike is sometimes referred to as the literary hike. As an obsessive medieval history buff, this reference is somewhat lost on me. We will pass through the lands that William Wordworth memorialized, moving into James Herriot (All Creatures Great and Small) territory and finish up in the moors of the Bronte sisters. I’m not totally clueless; I did read and love Wuthering Heights. I’m not sure it is possible to be a teenage girl and not love that book.I do remember watching parts of the Masterpiece Theatre's mini-series on James Herriot when I was a child. I remember my sister enjoyed it much more than I did. I also remember that one of the actors in that series is now in the Harry Potter movies.
I'm not a fan of romantic poetry, preferring my English literature to be the legends of King Arthur and my 19th century English reading to be Disraeli and Gladstone. I’m actually pretty clueless about Wordsworth. Years ago as I walked through the ruins of Tintern Abbey, I was very excited thinking I was walking among the ruins of a place founded by William Marshall and where Strongbow's wife and daughter were likely buried. The Wordworth connection – came to me about 4 hours after I left!

Hiking across England

No, I don't remember how I came up with the idea for this trip. I was probably searching for hikes in Wales since as anyone who knows me knows; hiking in northern Wales, well, north Wales in general, is my favorite activity/place on earth. Somewhere I found a reference to this coast to coast walk in England - starting in the Irish Sea and finishing in the North Sea and I became obsessed.
I've done some hard trips before. My sister and I biked from Seville to Granada in 2005. I must have been sleeping in the geography class which talked about the Sierra Nevadas. That trip was about 50 miles a day with some awful climbs and it was lovely but there were days when I didn't think I could sit on a bike for another minute. I've kayaked in Alaska and in British Columbia. Both trips required me to push myself beyond my comfort level as I don't have upper arm strength. In some ways, it was empowering. So here I go again. With an outfitter - not camping out - we'll be picked up and brought to a B&B every night. We'll meet up two weeks from today and I cannot wait!